The sun is shining on me and Finland

Hard to believe that a week ago I was trekking through snow blizzards, walking along strange motorways, wondering if I'd ever see civilization again...
The weather I've been experiencing these past few days is such a stark contrast.

Yesterday I sat out on the deck of this ferry, Galaxy, for the 3 hours and 15 minute journey across the Gulf of Finland, eyes squinting in the sun (although it was still a bit nippy. Not t-shirt weather) and tried hard to remember the suffering of last Wednesday when I battled the elements to get from Vilnius to Riga. As hard as I tried, my mind didn't want to be taken back to that place, so instead I just decided to enjoy the pleasant day and think to the future.
I hadn't slept a wink the night before, my thoughts taken up by the worrying and stressful prospect of having to go through all of that grief again, this time multiplied by a few hundred, to hitch-hike all the way down to Athens.
I'd come so far, and now with just one capital left, was starting to lose my drive. I was feeling tired and down. How would I possibly get through another couple of weeks of hitch-hiking with such a shortage of food and water?

My final view of Tallinn as my ferry pulled out of harbour.

My favourite thing about Tallinn is the abundance of seagulls. It's just like being at home in Brighton. It's been 5 months since I was woken early in the morning by their loud roof-top calls to one another.

At least I didn't have to worry about the immediate task of getting from Tallinn to Helsinki. Oliver's company, Aqris Software, had been kind enough to put up the ferry ticket for me, allowing me the opportunity to even be sitting out on the deck in the sun wondering how the hell I'd complete the challenge.
Aqris, by the way, are currently looking to recruit some non-Estonian IT professionals specialising in Java technology. If you fit that bill and fancy spending some time in Tallinn, get in touch direct through the link.

Oliver, me, and Dan (the Canadian couchsurfer). Looking a bit thin. Not long until I can sort that out with some proper English food!

I arrived in Helsinki at 4.45 in the afternoon and was met by Mikko, a 38-year old Finn with a passion for hiking.
We walked from the dock to his flat, and as he started cooking dinner - salmon, new potatoes, and cucumber - I sat down at his computer (in hope rather than expectation) to see if I'd received any positive news regarding my attempts to get a sponsor for my journey from Helsinki to Athens.
"Hmmm, a reply from Donatello's." I said to myself as I checked my inbox. "I wonder what excuse they've given for not being able to support me. What? Wait a minute? No way! Yessss, get in!"
Sue at Ristorante Donatello had agreed to front the air ticket to my final destination. Although first I had to convince her that this wasn't (as she suspected) an April Fools wind-up. I really was that stupid to have put myself on this challenge 5 months ago, and I really did only need to get to Athens to be able to say I've completed it.
The only reason I'd written to Donatello was because of the suggestion of my mate in Alaska. As soon as I read his comment advising me to try some restaurants, I said to myself "Why didn't I already think of that? Brilliant!"
Immediately Donatello's came to mind, just because it's my favourite place to eat in Brighton and also the biggest and most well-known of all the city's restaurants.
I also knew that they're a business that puts a lot of pride in their support for the local community, they were even the official shirt sponsors of Brighton and Hove Albion at a time when not many people wanted to put a penny of their cash into the club.
Still, when I wrote the email I really didn't expect to get a positive reply. Not because of the restaurant, just because I was getting used to receiving negative responses to this particular dilemma.
Thankfully, Donatello's came through for me, and I hope to be able to repay their kind support in whatever way I can. The first thing I'll do is to tell anyone and everyone this;
If you're hungry and in Brighton, actually if you're hungry and anywhere in England, get yourself on the bus, in the car, on the train, any way you can down to Donatello's in The Lanes of Brighton. I can tell you from personal knowledge that the food, service, and setting are the best in the city.
The 2nd thing I can do to show my appreciation is when I get back to Brighton, hopefully in about 10 days time, take everyone I know there to eat loads of their food and to keep the waiting staff on their toes.

Right, back to Helsinki.
I was given a nice evening tour of the city last night. It's different to any city I've visited so far. There's no old-town in the traditional sense, but that's not to say that there aren't a lot of old buildings with a lot of character.
The history is also interesting, as Helsinki has been under the control of both Sweden and Russia, only enjoying independence since 1918.
Visual reminders of these previous landlords are evident all over the city, and make for an interesting tour around Helsinki.
As you stand in the market square down by the water's edge, you get a good example of what I'm talking about. Look to the left, you see the huge Lutheran cathedral. Shift your eyes to the right and there's the impressive Orthodox cathedral.

The relief that yesterday's news gave me meant I was able to fall asleep last night before midnight, and I actually got up this morning (not even grumpily) at 6.30!
Mikko was getting himself ready for work, he left at 6.45 and rather than stay lying in bed, I got myself up and out on to the balcony to enjoy the early morning sun.
That's another cool thing about being in Finland. The sun rises early and sets late.
It's a bit nippy outside, and people are walking to work with warm hats on their heads, but the sun is shining gloriously. Don't believe me? I took this picture from the balcony at 8 this morning;
I think I'm going to sit out on the balcony for a little while, listening to Slovenian radio through the internet (it's bright, sunny mornings like this that make me nostalgic to my 3 years in Ljubljana, where I'd sit out on my balcony over-looking the castle and eat breakfast with Vanja) then I'll get out and explore a bit of the city. In the afternoon, around 4.30, I'll meet Mikko from work and then we're going to take the ferry to the fortified island of Suomenlinna which I'm looking forward to seeing.
I'll be leaving Mikko's flat tomorrow to allow him to prepare and pack for his trip to England's Lake District, and I'll be moving across the city to stay with an American guy called Christopher for a few days until I can get to Greece.

Even more good news: As I've been typing this post, I've received a very enthusiastic email from a girl in Athens, Voula, letting me know that I don't even need to think any more about trying to find a place to stay while I'm there.

And so, it all falls into place!

The only thing left to do is try to at least reach the target amount for Cancer Research UK of £1500. Actually, I don't want to settle for 1500, let's get well over that amount. CLICK HERE TO MAKE IT HAPPEN! Of course you'll still be able to donate after I finish the challenge, and I'll be donating a percentage of any amount made from the upcoming book, but let's at least get to the original goal before I once again set foot on English soil.

One more picture; Elina in Riga kindly handing over my bus ticket from there to Tallinn.

Days on the road (without any money); 156
Capitals visited; 25 (3 non-EU)
Distance travelled; 8228 miles (13279 km)
Left to complete my mission; Just 1 capital - Athens!